The Art of Khes Weaving: A Guide to Pakistan's Traditional Textiles

There are textiles, and then there are textiles with memory. Khes — the double-woven, reversible fabric born from the looms of Punjab — belongs firmly in the second category. Passed down through generations of master weavers, Khes is not simply cloth. It is a record of craft, community, and continuity.

What Is Khes?

Khes (pronounced khes, rhyming with "face") is a traditional handwoven textile originating from the Punjab region of Pakistan. Distinguished by its double-weave construction, Khes is fully reversible — both sides carry the same pattern in mirrored tones, a technical feat that speaks to the skill of the weaver.

Traditionally woven from cotton, Khes is prized for its breathability in summer and its surprising warmth when layered in cooler months. Woollen Khes, woven from fine local wool, extends this versatility into winter.

A Craft With Deep Roots

The origins of Khes weaving trace back several centuries, with the craft concentrated in towns like Gujranwala, Hafizabad, and Chiniot. These were not factory towns — they were weaving communities, where the loom was as central to daily life as the hearth.

The Jolaha community, hereditary weavers of the subcontinent, are the custodians of this tradition. Their knowledge — of thread counts, tension, pattern sequencing — is not written in manuals. It lives in hands and is passed from father to son, mother to daughter.

How Khes Is Made

The process begins with yarn preparation: cotton or wool threads are dyed, dried, and wound onto bobbins. The weaver then sets up the loom — a process that can take an entire day for a complex pattern — before the rhythmic work of weaving begins.

What makes Khes technically demanding is the double-weave structure. Two layers of fabric are woven simultaneously and interlocked at intervals to create the pattern. A single Khes piece can take two to four days of continuous work, depending on its size and complexity.

Why It Matters Today

In an era of fast fashion and machine-made imitations, handwoven Khes represents something increasingly rare: intentional making. Each piece carries the slight irregularities that are the signature of the human hand — not flaws, but proof of authenticity.

At Bistaray, every Khes is sourced directly from artisan communities, ensuring that the craft — and the craftspeople — are sustained. When you bring a Khes into your home, you are not just acquiring a textile. You are participating in its continuation.